JLM
COMENTARIOS ANÓNIMOS DE GASTRONOMÍA. La crítica gastronómica se ha convertido en un negocio. Debiera imponerse el comentario anónimo, para los productores y por tanto también para el cliente/lector. Como el rigor. No existe el paraíso ni la perfección. Pero la falta de profesionalidad cuando no el simple timo, en las cocinas o en la crítica, sí. De ahí Joe L. Montana.
monti otoño 2013
sábado, 25 de agosto de 2012
buenos vinos de EEUU (según el New York Times)
Y muchos accesibles en España a través de Alemania. Debo confesar que no los conozco y que mi fe en el diario en estas cuestiones es limitada. Pero superior a la que tengo en las valoraciones de Parker
JLM
JLM
12
Great American Values, in No Particular Order
Palmina Santa Barbara County Pinot Grigio 2011, $17
Palmina is
devoted to making wines from Italian grapes grown in Santa Barbara County. This
pinot grigio is fuller-bodied than what might come from northeast Italy, but
it’s lively, vivacious, balanced and properly refreshing.
Qupé Santa Barbara County Marsanne 2011, $20
Bob Lindquist is
one of the unsung heroes of California wine, and his Qupé label is consistently
overlooked, possibly because he makes wines of little-known Rhône grapes like
marsanne. This is actually a blend of two Rhône grapes, 79 percent marsanne and
21 percent roussanne. Pleasantly weighty and harmonious with persistent floral,
nutlike flavors.
Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2010,
$20
While much of
California has veered from making bombastic chardonnays to lean “no oak”
versions, Jim Clendenen has stayed the course, making wines that are direct,
restrained and balanced. The 2010 chardonnay is lively and inviting, smoky and
spicy.
Lieb Family Cellars North Fork of Long Island Pinot
Blanc 2009, $19
What is it about
pinot blanc? It would be easy to dismiss this wine as nondescript, as it
doesn’t offer a cornucopia of fruity adjectives in a glass. Yet it is simply
delicious: dry and creamy with lightly herbal, mineral flavors. The texture
draws you in.
Hermann J. Wiemer Finger
Lakes Dry Riesling 2011, $17
The label says
“Dry Riesling,” but in fact it’s slightly sweet, like an old-school German
kabinett riesling from the days before global warming. Nonetheless, it’s
superb, with deep three-dimensional flavors, tangy and lightly fruity.
Ravines Finger Lakes Dry Riesling 2011, $15
A perfect
contrast to the off-dry Hermann J. Wiemer style. The Ravines Dry Riesling is
truly dry and intensely mineral, succulent and lip-smacking. A great house
white.
Heitz Napa Valley Grignolino 2009,
$20
Grignolino? From Napa Valley? While other producers
have converted their Napa vineyards of esoteric grapes into more lucrative
cabernet sauvignon, Heitz has held out and continues to make this ruby-colored
red, bone dry with dark, spicy flavors and a refreshing bitterness.
Bonny Doon Vineyard Central Coast Contra Old Vine
Field Blend 2009, $16
Contra is an
old-style blend, reminiscent of the days when Italian immigrants planted
multiple grapes side by side, harvesting and vinifying them together. This wine
is 55 percent old-vine carignan, a scorned grape worthy of scorn when
overcropped but winsome and perfumed when tended with care. This wine, which
also has grenache, mourvèdre, zinfandel, petite sirah and syrah in the blend,
is dry, fruity and harmonious with a streak of licorice.
Lenz North Fork of Long Island Merlot 2007, $15
I keep hearing
that merlot is making a comeback. If more merlots tasted like Lenz’s, perhaps
it never would have left. The ’07 is plummy, earthy and balanced, dry, lively
and pleasing.
Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2010,
$18
Once upon a
time, American pinot noirs were known as bridge wines, perfect for restaurant
dinners because they were versatile to bridge diverse dishes. Then a powerfully
fruity style became popular, which won high ratings but obliterated the
dinnertime harmony. The 2010 Montinore reverts to a time when pinot noir could
be counted on as fresh, energetic and subtle.
Oberon Napa Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon 2009, $18
How could good
Napa Valley cabernet be this cheap? Prices for grapes in 2009, in the wake of
the economic crisis, were down, and the Michael Mondavi family, which produces
Oberon, is clever about finding good grapes at low prices. It also makes wines
for drinking, not tasting. The ’09 offers real Napa flavors and structure
without the veneer of artifice that mars many low-cost cabernets. Subsequent
vintages will cost more.
Broadside Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon Margarita
Vineyard 2010, $20
Broadside teams
up Chris Brockway of Broc Cellars, which produces excellent, restrained wines,
and Brian Terrizzi of Giornata, which focuses on Italian grapes grown in
California. This cabernet, from a single vineyard in a cooler southern part of
Paso Robles, is animated by lively acidity and is made in a restrained style
that nonetheless is insistently spicy and stony.
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Sr. Montana, se nota que le interesa el vino. ¿Qué vinos le gustaría encontrar en una carta de restaurante?. Que sean vendibles claro. Sería interesante saber su opinión.
ResponderEliminarme sumo a la idea
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