COMENTARIOS ANÓNIMOS DE GASTRONOMÍA. La crítica gastronómica se ha convertido en un negocio. Debiera imponerse el comentario anónimo, para los productores y por tanto también para el cliente/lector. Como el rigor. No existe el paraíso ni la perfección. Pero la falta de profesionalidad cuando no el simple timo, en las cocinas o en la crítica, sí. De ahí Joe L. Montana.
monti otoño 2013
domingo, 30 de septiembre de 2012
Give me Five!! (Very good whites wines from Valencia)
(Part I Whites Wines)
The Valencian wineries have made a huge
effort improving their wines in recent years. And all has been done with very
little public support when compared with the financial aid obtained by their counterparts
in other areas of Spain like Navarra, Madrid, La Rioja or Ribera del Duero.
But there are excellent products worth tasting. Unfortunately, most of the wineries are too small to make an effective advertising strategy which is outside their possibilities. And the D.O have been not very effective. This lack of public attention and ineffiency makes wines form Valencia (Alicante, Castellón and Valencia) little known. Or less than they ought.
This situation has a very positive side.
Apart from a few exceptions, their prices are low for the quality they offer.
Therefore, a high proportion of the wines produced here have quality and value.
Important advantages to taste them if you find some in the wine list of a
restaurant or if you are visiting the region. Here, then, are some of my recommendations
(September 2012).
Essens 2011 - Bodegas Essens. Vino Blanco DO Alicante. (10 €). My main surprise in whites, perhaps because I was unaware about the
possibility of finding a so competitive chardonnay (in international terms) among the Wines produced in the hinterland of Alicante. An extraordinary wine, light
but with plenty of flavor. Fermented and
aged for two months in French oak barrels, the result is, as I have just said, a light white, with a very
bright color, and an integrated acidity, with fine touches of wood and a grassy
spot.
Los Almendros 2008 Bodegas El Angosto (9 €).
A second excellent white. A combination of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling with remarkable similarities to the Bordeaux
Pessac Leognan although it still has a long way to go. From what I've seen in
stores, however, the vintage now in the market is the 2009, which I have not
tasted and whose valuation could be a litlle different. But I am pretty sure it’s a good
choice. Wines change from one vintage to the other, but no so much.
Älvarez Nolting 2009 Chardonnay. Alvarez Nolting (90% Chardonnay and 10%
sauvignon). (15 €). I am totally unable to identify those "fragrant herbs"
found by a famous Spanish Wine Critic in this wine but I like it very much. I
dislike the chardonnays with excess lemon flavor and this one is not the case.
The wine has a low alcohol content, (in comparative terms) but good persistence
and complexity. From the same winery, I sure bet in Valencia reds is Alvarez Nölting 2006, a blend between
cabernet sauvignon and tempranillo, light and smooth but also with a good
persistence.
Mestizaje Blanco 2011 Bodegas Mustiguillo (10 €) Probably the one of the five I am recommending here easier to find in restaurants but no less attractive. It’s
a bled of Merseguera (a Spanish variety widely grown in Alicante), Viognier and Malvasía (pinot gris in some areas of Europe Jancis Robinson dixit). The result is less persistent than the previos mentioned but very fresh wine easy to drink. Has a sweet spot
but as all the five is a dry wine (I dont like the fruity whites).
Musikanto 2011.Viñedos Culturales (9,50 €). A quite unique wine, completely different from any other white. Fermented, as some Italian wines, in amphorae (Like de ones produced by Josko Gravner) but made with a variety used infrequently for whites (garnacha peluda). Has no possible comparison and I am unable to describe it. Perhaps as surprinsing as the Pinot Grigio of the Radikon winery in Italy. I strongly recommend to taste it at least once (if you find it in a restaurant or in a Wineshoop which it's not easy given the small amount of botlles available).
In my view, it’s another superb result of this winery that produces some
of the best red wines in the region.
But about the more than good red winess we have
in Valencia I will write next time.
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Montana, se te ha perdido la imagen. Por si no te has dado cuenta. Y era buena!!.
ResponderEliminarGracias por el aviso pero me temo que no soy yo sino blogger. Unas veces se ve otras no.
EliminarAhora vas de inglés???. ¿te vas a dedicar a los guiris?. Eres una nube de sorpresas ¿O es que te achantas -como todos los colegas que tienes-contra la mafia gastronómica local?. Hace meses que no leo una crítica que critique algo. ¿es que son dioses?. Pues lo parece
ResponderEliminarGracias por su tiempo. Todo lo que sea contribuir a difundir (modestamente) lo bueno que tenemos me parece interesante. Y no, la "mafia local" que desde luego funciona como un reloj no me tiene achantado. Pero no pienso, no lo merece, dedicarle más tiempo del imprescindible. Hay mucho bueno que reseñar (también mucho malo que criticar).
Eliminarhard to believe. I know and if I might say quite well the five whites and except Musikanto, a strange wine whitout interest for me, there are not hundreds but thousands better in Spain. So please recommend quality not territories.
ResponderEliminarThanks for your comment. It's not incompatible to devote attention to quality, first point to consider, and territory. Specially if both go togheter. As you notice, I do not completelety agree with your valuation to the five wines choosen.
ResponderEliminarBona selecció, encara que es podria incloure el Reixiu 2011 de Heretat de Taverners. Porta 6 o 7 anys en el mercat i en la meua modesta opinió es el primer blanc realment destacable que es va fer en les nostres terres. 80% Chardonnay i 20% Sauvignon Blanc, amb 2 o 3 meses de fusta.
ResponderEliminarAltres blancs interessants: Blanc de Trilogia, Brote de Los Pinos (molt recomanable) i per suposat el Impromptu
Completament d'acord en els que conec (no es el cas de Brote los Pinos que buscarè). El problema es que hi havia que triar per a fer la llista llegible (sobre tot per a un public angloxaxò i de xarxa social) que pot visitar la CV. Gràcies per el comentari. JLM
ResponderEliminar